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Thea McDonald Lee

It almost seems like a ridiculous thing to say but I swear a lot of my life has just happened by accident. Of course there were plans. Plans that saw fruition. Plans that didn’t even make it to the first hurdle. But, as a friend recently said to me, “it's all good as long as you always have a plan, that you're always working towards something”. Being a part of the surfing community really is a lifelong commitment, and probably the most diverse adventure I’ve ever been on. There are stories to be found in every corner of every shaping bay, carpark and flickering somewhere in every wave caught. I feel privileged to get a chance to tell some of those.